Honeymoons: Magnetic South
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Little Palm Island, The Florida Keys
by Valerie Schroth
Try this heavenly honeymoon on for size. For the first few days you lovebirds are ensconced on a gorgeous private island, in a thatch-roofed hut just steps from the sea. You’ll sup on delectable delicacies, see exotic wildlife up close, follow a winding path of crushed seashells to the spa, and laze away your time in the sun. Then, just when you’re beginning to yearn for a little action, you scoot over to a very different island, this one with lots of shops, restaurants and bars—and exotic, wild life all its own.
It’s the perfect mix, and you don’t even have to leave American soil to do it. So start out with two or three nights at Little Palm Island, a tiny whisker of an island accessible only by boat—or seaplane—that’s included in 1000 Places to See Before You Die. (You leave your car at the welcome center on Little Torch Key.)
There’s a small white-sand beach, a to-die-for pool and complimentary Hobie Cats and Boston Whalers you can take out whenever. There are daily scuba and snorkeling expeditions, too, and . . . well, that’s about it on an island this size. There’s not a lot to do, so you don’t do a lot—paradise found. (In fact, the motto emblazoned on hats and T-shirts here is “Do Nothing.”) And, ahem, you are on your honeymoon. We trust you’ll find ways to occupy your time.
We whiled away most of our time at the pool, one of the most inviting I’ve ever seen at a resort, with an undulating edge, scattered chairs arranged for maximum privacy, and a profusion of palms, sea grape, pencil cactus and bougainvillea surrounding it.
Fauna aren’t in short supply either. Among Little Palm’s many cosseted guests (FDR and Harry Truman vacationed here, PT 109 was filmed here; more recently Drew Barrymore paid a visit), none are made more welcome than the petite endangered Key deer that wander among the plantings and sidle right up to your chaise longue for a tasty morsel. It may sound strange but petting these little deer was a highlight of our stay (then again, I’m a sucker for this kind of thing). Another time we saw a sizable iguana by the pool, and once a magnificent heron standing right on its inside ledge.
The suite, with your name out front while you’re in residence, makes a proper love nest (oxymoron?), with an impossibly high bed (there are actually little steps to get up there!) draped in mosquito netting, a sitting room and a spacious porch. There’s an outdoor shower off the bathroom.
Little Palm has only 30 suites, so you’re never in a crowd—in the restaurant, by the pool or on the beach—and the privacy is delicious.
Speaking of delicious, Little Palm’s dining room, which Fodor’s calls one of the most romantic in the Keys (and Zagat rates No. 3 in the U.S. for hotel dining), is truly lovely and perfectly situated for showy sunsets, with torch-lit tables spilling right down to the water’s edge.
The cuisine is “French/Pan Latin” and, not surprisingly, the accent’s on seafood—sparkling-fresh Florida stone crabs, yellowtail snapper, mahi mahi—but there’s always a meat dish or two and often game. Don’t even think about passing up the stellar Key lime pie. As far as romance goes, it doesn’t hurt one bit that the live music every night tends toward torch songs and standards.
Okay, here’s the catch: All of this splendid isolation doesn’t come cheap, or even expensive. In season it’s $1,200 a night for a weeknight, not including meals—but we guarantee it’s an experience you’ll never forget.
And this is why Part 2 of our honeymoon scenario makes such great sense. Make your farewells to Little Palm, reclaim your car and drive to storied Key West, just 28 miles away. Here you’ll find accommodations of every description, at every price point. We stayed at Ocean Key Resort, a good-sized hotel right on the water, with a terrific spa and two restaurants. We had a wonderful suite and spent a good deal of our time on the balcony taking in the passing cavalcade of yachts and giant catamarans, party boats and fishing craft of every description. It’s better than TV!
When you hit the street, you’ll find plenty of other diversions (do try to get to the Key West Museum of Art & History, the Ernest Hemingway Home and the Butterfly & Nature Conservatory) and lots of great restaurants. But in the end, you may well find nothing quite tops the show going on all around you.
For more info on Little Palm Island, call (305) 872-2524 or visit littlepalmisland.com; for Ocean Key Resort, call (305) 296-7701 or visit oceankey.com.
